Living Cape Verdean

It has been a little over two weeks since we arrived in Sta. Maria, Sal in our nine-day Atlantic voyage from Gran Canaria. There are no significant changes in the island since ten months ago when we first set our foot in Sal. The same town centre, African shops selling handicrafts and paintings, restaurants and cafes, the reggae music in the evenings and most of all the great turquoise ocean in all its panoramic beauty dotted by sailboats and fishermen boats gently rocking with the waves.

Our boat, Y/S Sheilah is anchored nearby within sight from our beach flat's balcony. It is neighbour to three Catamarans owned by Germans, Dutch and one without any flag. Ours have the Swedish flag but we will register it here and it will have the C.V. flag as well. Our crewmember Steven lives in the boat. Occasionally he comes to shore with the surfboard or the dinghy, or swims to shore.

Getting things functioning in this island has taught us the meaning of "No stress". People don't want to get stressed. They like an unhurried life at their own tempo. When I went to the bank to change some Euro into smaller denomination, they didnt have the cash. Then I went to CV Telecom to inquire about an internet connection. I was told we had to be a company in order to get a connection. It seems that they don't trust residential tourists who come and go, meaning-they own residential flats but are not full-time residents.

There are no mailboxes to drop letters. You have to go to the post office and give your letters to a postal employee. I asked how we could get our mails because there are no postmen delivering them. I was told they are sent to the reception of the Porto Antigo administration. Then the streets don't have names. Our favourite pub is called Tam Tam, owned by an Irish. So we call the street Tam Tam street. On the same street one finds two internet cafes charging 1Eur for 30 minutes.

At sundown, we can see from our balcony the local surfers - one with a dog on his board, swinging high and low with the waves. The local pier is the liveliest part of Sta Maria because it is the landing place for all fish catches where they are cleaned before they are sold or delivered to restaurants. From this pier, the divers and tourists take the yellow submarine and then transfer to the bigger motorsailers. There is a favourite diving place where a Russian ship was deliberately sunk for the divers' delight.

I suppose that a major reason for the "No stress" quality of the Cape Verdean people is that they never had to fight any wars of liberation. They were a colony of Portugal just like Mozambique, Angola, Guinea Bissau, Sao Tome but they got their independence without bloodshed in 1975. They promote tourism especially in Sal where a booming property development is happening but there seem to be no hurry in simplifying its investment rules.

It is a country of nine populated islands. Each island has its own landscape, vegetation and local industries. There is a population of half-a-million Cape Verdeans living in these islands and as many live overseas, mainly in the USA. Living in Sta. Maria, Sal means allowing time to settle in you without the limitations of space and self-expectations. Like the sellers of African arts and paintings, who don't press you for a buy, you don't press yourself for daily accomplishments in a country where you don't see or hear much of politics and politicians. There's that freedom to do nothing and nothing means no shame or disgrace.#

The Atlantic voyage-from Canaria to Cape Verde

In life some things happen without the benefit of elaborate planning and these are the occasions that give the most satisfaction and feeling of achievement. The outcome of unintended happenings that extend beyond the hours of the day create all kinds of feelings, anxieties and excitement over one´s dear life.

Our Atlantic sailing voyage from Gran Canaria to Sal in Cape Verde was not a grand ambition to prove our ability to do better than others. It was going to be the start of a long holiday in a new place in West Africa where my life partner and I intend to spend half the year in residence. We want an easier lifestyle after many years of working and of being contributive members of the human community. We discovered Sta. Maria in Sal - one of Cape Verde's ten populated islands in West Africa last January and we knew right then and there that it would be a home for us. It is a piece of paradise, so achingly beautiful.

To go to Sal by sailing was not planned at all. In the beginning it was the thought of starting an inter-island shipping that sent us looking at cargo boats in Sweden and Norway. We also looked at several motorsailers but to sail from Sweden to Cape Verde was going to be one hell of a challenge.

After searching for vessels of various sizes and brands, I found an Ericson 36 cruiser moored in Las Palmas, Canary Island. It was owned by a Canadian who sailed her single-handed to New Zealand and the Caribbean. The yachting company who was selling it is infact a dear old friend of my partner who moved from Sweden and settled down in las Palmas. I thought it was some Divine intervention that led me to find the perfect boat to take us to our paradise island.

We stayed 15 days in Las Palmas preparing the boat - then called Afriki, for the Atlantic voyage. The boat was moored in the marina called Muelle Deportivo in the heart of Las Palmas' popular harbour. Three days prior to our departure, I had the Afriki name removed and I myself painted the boat´s new name, Sheilah. Finally in Nov. 12th, we sailed out of Canaria on a bright sunny day. We found a third crew member Steven, a Danish who was looking for sailing adventure as well.

After the 6th hour, we were out of the tip of Canary island and had now been almost alone in the huge Atlantic ocean. It was a humbling experience to feel so small in the midst of such an infinity. Then we felt that although the wind favoured our course, the ocean swell was building up in strength. The first three days were extremely difficult because the main sail was ripped in the middle and the tear got bigger. Then the boom's shackle got loose from its hook. It was swinging to extreme sides. I was helpless to help as I was battling with nausea and sea sickness.

On the third day, I wanted the call SOS to pick me up and take me to any nearest port. I had the bad luck of an accident on the first evening. I was down the saloon when the boat dipped suddenly to one side throwing me against the kitchen edge. I thought I got a fractured lower rib. I nourished the bruise for the whole trip's duration unable to breathe without pain. I could not eat for 5 days. I drank only water and juice and even that was an ordeal. We forgot hunger and appetite. It didn't help that we were fully stuffed with food. I subsisted on meager bites of hard bread. The mere thought of food made me vomit.

It was about the 7th day when I had a real meal, we three actually. Steven cooked some rice and sausages. I found it difficult to eat as I felt like having gone through a hunger strike for a week. On the 8th day - after so much trouble with sails and the continued rocking motion, I braved myself and cooked pasta with meatballs. So, on that day we eat together all three of us, in the cockpit - our spirits buoyed by the thoughts that we were only one day away from land.

It was Sunday morning when we sighted Sal, a tiny shadow from a distance. We were so happy and so relieved that we were going to be fine finally. We arrived in Sta. Maria at around 17.00 p.m. It is hard to describe how we felt at this moment. Words are not always enough for great emotions. Sal was, is beautiful. Its turquoise waters a comforting sight for eyes grown tired from seeing only the hard swells of the ocean.

Having gone through this voyage is for me the best test in endurance and spirit, in not losing hope amidst tremendous difficulty and in staying close with the power greater than all men. My
belief in my guiding saint has never been stronger and I felt that She never abandoned me when I needed her most. My life companion - who apologised profusely for taking me on this trip instead of flying direct to Sal without trouble, said that the experience could only strengthen the feelings we have for each other. Hopefully, this is going to be the worst we shall have to face. #

Las Palmas de Canaria's sunny embrace

The journey to the Atlantic, specifically to Cape Verde in West Africa took a detour. My co-traveller and SO (significant other) arrived in Las Palmas Oct. 26th - to claim ownership of Afriki, an Ericson 36 boat formerly owned by a Canadian who has spent many years exploring new territories, including Asia and later New Zealand. We bought the boat without having seen her, based on her pictures on a website about Boats and Yatchs for Sale.


Las Palmas is everything the promoters of tourism about sun says, plus a bit more. It is a favourite retirement place of boat-addicted seniors who got tired of Sweden and its very structured lifestyle. We met Dennis and Ulrika - both Swedes who never left Las Palmas since falling in love with the place 15 years ago. The place is extremely generous to seniors even with healthcare services. Living in a boat is cheap compared to a flat or house. One pays a daily harbour fee of seven EUR which is about 2,700 a month. How much does a flat cost in Sweden?

The boat is still Afriki, until we get its new name painted. It is a very spacious boat with lots of compartments for storing things. It can easily sit 10 people outside for dinners and drinks and another 8 inside. It is a perfect home for two people. The sleeping areas are also generous and can accommodate 6 people. It is equipped with fishing lines which is very important for our plan in Sal - special fishing expeditions.

The first problem we met was the non-functioning stove which made us dependent for coffee on our Swedish neighbours Dennis and Ulrika. At this writing, my SO is battling with the kitchen connections, possibly dismembering the connections. I escaped to Barabordo to do my IT and have a great lasagne lunch. Alone! We'll probably stay a bit more in Las Palmas. It feels so easy and stressfree.

On sunsets when we pop open a bubble ( wine and alcohol are really cheaper than in Sweden's Systembolaget's), we don't talk much and simply savour the gift of a changed lifestyle that allows us to learn not just about a boat and her attributes but about each other. It is surprising that getting to know someone actually takes longer than love at first sight.#

Life like a river

"Que sera sera" is the world of dreams beyond the narrow confines of young adulthood - an unescapable stage in one's life where parental supervision limits the wildness of the mind from seeking adventures beyond what is considered attainable. A small town girl opens her wings and soars the heights of the sky for an unknown destination where dreams could turn into reality. "Que sera sera" is an act of daring, a plunge into uncertainty, a leap of faith with nothing more than one's belief in oneself.

To be young and reckless in the name of adventure and growing up is life's biggest gift to those who believe that everything is possible and that "if there's a will, there's a way". Countless people have succeeded in overcoming limited spaces and resources. Think how many great technologies were conceived in humble college dormitories. And look at how Facebook has revolutionised social media.

How can one be young forever so that new discoveries in life, new meanings could continue despite setbacks. Dreaming as well as living is not one fluid movement like the river. When one is alone, there's no stopping one's search for something or someone. But family, career and relationships create a new dimension in one's search for life's meanings not just for one's self but with loved ones. Growing older helps to create a clearer view of life's destination and how best to navigate to get there.

What happens when the river flow takes a bend? Dreams are broken because relationships fall by the wayside and the dreamer may or may not accept to wake up and take the consequence. There are some who find failures easier to deal with by going along with the main current rather than finding some small outlet where life can find a new meaning that is different from the rest of the world.

How difficult would it be to live in both dream and reality after many moons and river bends? Is there something like middle age romance with life where time is no longer of essence, where a happening continues without interruptions and where love redefines time according to moments of happiness. The truest meaning of life comes from losing more than once and finding at the very end of the river flow just before joining the ocean, a steady skipper to sail a boat and hold one's hand when the sea goes rough. #

A victory with a hard challenge

The non-Socialist Alliance government won a second mandate and Moderate leader Fredrik Reinfeldt made history by winning a second term, although not as a majority party. It is a victory that comes with a new challenge and a difficult one - that of creating government stability with the entry into parliament of rightist Sverige Demokraterna party or SD.

In my own interpretation of the results of the 2010 Swedish national elections, I could say that the electorate voted the Alliance continuity in power because it would be senseless and stupid to jeopardise the country's economic performance by changing political leadership. It is needless to repeat the same argument that without a growth-oriented economy, Sweden's welfare state system cannot survive especially not with the overwhelming cost of keeping social and economic equality.

The Alliance will continue as a minority government and it is here where the challenge of true leadership begins. Both political blocs will not have anything to do with the immigrant-hostile SD. Initially, Reinfeldt said that he would want to invite the Green Party or MP but which MP spokesperson Maria Wetterstrand dismissed. It would appear amateurish for both political blocs to show weakness or lack of vision in tackling any lead negotiating role the SD could have in parliament. I think that across the bloc cooperation can be achieved on an issue to issue basis, especially those that concern the general interest of the people.

The small margin of win that the Alliance government have is also a strong reminder to look into the root cause of discontent that propelled the SDs into winning around 5.7 percent of parliamentary seats. And why was SD particularly strong in places such as Skåne. Whatever is ailing the population in places where SD got its votes should be seriously looked into by both political blocs. It is not enough to curse SD's win as well as its appeal that won voters. It is crucial to seek cure for the malady that created an SD.

In being a minority government, the Swedish electorate also sent a reminder that winning and continuity in power should not be taken for granted and that those who will continue governing cannot do so in great comfort. The political landscape of Sweden is changing, the composition of the Swedish voters have also changed, especially generationally. What is the expectation of half-a-million first-time voters when they cast their votes? What kind of future will they have?

The Swedish immigration issue is a very thorny question that has been left unanswered by both political blocs. And yet problems of immigration have gotten so complicated that there is no clear policy on asylum and refugees. The refugee burden-sharing mechanism among EU-member states is not equal as there are certain EU countries that refuse to increase their intake quota of asylum seekers.

It is a new era in Swedish politics after this election, one that will not allow any genuine leadership to take for granted the democratic decision of the majority. The new era demands innovation if not imagination in terms of actions and responses to new challenges unfolding in Sweden's social and political landscape. Today, it is not enough to have an ideology based on equality if the burdens of keeping that equality is not shared by all. The saying: "Some are more equal than others" has no place in true democracy.#

Voting for Alliance' continued good economic governance

I was in Gdansk, Poland in Sept. 2008 when the world came to a shattering financial crash that originated from United States mismanagement of certain economic sectors. For a country such as Sweden that is highly dependent upon its foreign trade where the US is a major trading partner, this financial shutdown was catastrophic, to say the least.

Then and there, no one was safe and secured with their jobs and there would be no welfare to cushion the effects of a massive economic retrenchment.The most amazing thing that happened was that, no one in Sweden felt threatened with loss of job, home and financial security. There were hard measures taken by the Alliance government but they were not as drastic as those needed by other EU countries whose financial systems were collapsing.

In today's SvD opinion page, Maria Eriksson wrote a very good summary on why we should support the Alliance by voting their continuity in power. She wrote: " One election, two alternatives. One has implemented four job tax reduction incentives and intends to proceed with a fifth against three parties that will undo all these income tax incentives. An alliance that knows that it is the industries that create jobs and welfare. And a RedGreen alternative whose politics oppose private initiatives in the health and school sectors, introduce rights to fulltime yearly equality planning, wealth taxation and increased employers fee for the youth."

The latest SIFO political barometer shows a closing of the gap between the two blocks although the Alliance still has the majority. In the more recent interviews of political leaders, the central issue of the economy was somewhat sidetracked by questions on sickness insurances. Eriksson writes further, and I fully agree that the election on Sunday is not a question of reduced taxes or social welfare but of the continuity of a good economy, in private as well as in public.

"Sweden is on its way out of the crisis, according to an article by The Economist. Half of the country's economy is dependent upon foreign trade which means that Sweden was deeply affected by the world economic backlash. But as The Economist has written, Sweden this year has achieved a GNP stronger than any country in the OECD area. The Swedish voters should appreciate and reward the competence with which the Alliance handled an extremely difficult period.

That Sweden is on its way out of an economic crisis is due mainly to the performance of the Alliance government. This means that the healthy recovery of the economy should continue to be managed by the same people that got the country out of a deep quagmire. In these times of uncertain world peace and order, it is economic growth that is the best weapon against terrorism and radicalism. The opposite is poverty and desperation that induce fanaticism and bigotry.#

Who gets my vote!

From Sept 1, Swedish voters may begin to cast their votes in selected places - usually in post offices. The two political blocks composed of the Non-socialist alliance which is currently in power is being challenged by the opposition Socialist red-green coalition. The electoral race is tight and the Non-Socialist block has had a 6.7 percent lead against the Socialist red-green coalition which has desperately sought and identified the undecided groups in order to level the fighting field.

The problem with the Socialist red-green block is that, it has been reacting mostly to certain crucial issues in the governing Non-Socialist alliance election platform. Tax reduction incentives have been trumpeted for basically the same population segments: the pensioners, the low and medium wage earners, the employers who are admonished to employ the young between the ages of 18 and 24, as well as certain service branches like restaurants and hairdressers. There is also an invitation - mostly for women, to start companies in the health and nursing sectors through a start-up capital. The Socialist's detailed position on many isues have not always been clear and straightforward.

When it comes to family politics, both blocks are ardently courting young families with children with infectious and hard to deny offers of state-subsidised parental equality when it comes to sharing maternity and paternity leaves of absences; child custody allowances which includes leaves of absence from work due to caring of a sick child at home. There is the idea of imposing quota for the division of parental leaves after a child's birth. A quota is about the worst idea one can think of. The care of a newborn child, up until a year when he or she can be placed in a daycare center should be left to the decision of both parents, especially if they are both working and have successful careers that need balancing with family life.

As for the reduced income tax payments of pensioners, it is high time that all the politicians took cognizance of an issue that has been relegated to the waste basket in previous elections. It is my contention that the pensioners have already been taxed highly during their active working years and that their pensions are well-earned benefits to secure a decent life in their old age. True, there are many retirees who are economically above the average. But a majority are definitely on the margin so much so that, there is not much left in the wallet after payment of monthly dues for housing, medical care and food. In Sweden, one must have worked for 40 years in order to get a decent retirement pension.

Since the electoral race is very close and the undecided remain undecided, the biggest labor organisation LO that has been a partner of the Social Democratic party decided to use a "dirtier" campaign strategy - that of posters showing pictures of all the leading Alliance politicians upside down. The LO chairman was quoted as saying that the race is too close that they (LO) needed to be more aggressive describing each competitor in a negative way. Some observers feel offended that this campaigning is targetting the person much more than the politics in question. I believe there could be a backlash instead of a mass appreciation for what looks like a bad losers' attitude.

Looking and comparing the various issues and specific proposals of each block, it appears that the Socialist red-green coalition will have to raise more taxes to finance all the tax reduction incentives it plans to implement. It will be higher income tax for a particular population segment; gas, cigarette and alcohol consumption; property ownerships of houses and villas, among many others. The Socialist red-green coalition will also removed the so-called "Rut" household subsidy which is the 50 percent cost reduction for employment of household help such as cleaners. This has been a very helpful subsidy to working families who cannot find enough time to do household work because of job and childcare demands. It is also employment-generating especially for immigrants who want to work but have difficulties finding jobs.

So comes the big question of whom I should vote for, who will continue Sweden's egalitarian welfare society where rights and responsibilities are equally shared among citizens regarding of creed, colour and class; where there are no special groups that receive greater privileges; where all citizens respect and accept the dominant social and cultural norms of the Swedish way of life and where power and democracy reside in the people and not in the political parties and labour unions' collective decision making apparatus. I want to live in a society where I am accepted as an individual and not a mere cog in the giant collective wheel of power.

There are certainly major global issues such as climate, poverty, elimination of nuclear bombs and weapons of mass destruction, religious fanaticism and terrorism that require international cooperation and solidarity. But it is my firm belief that regardless of which political block wins this coming election, Sweden's position on all these global issues remains unassailable.#