The journey to the Atlantic, specifically to Cape Verde in West Africa took a detour. My co-traveller and SO (significant other) arrived in Las Palmas Oct. 26th - to claim ownership of Afriki, an Ericson 36 boat formerly owned by a Canadian who has spent many years exploring new territories, including Asia and later New Zealand. We bought the boat without having seen her, based on her pictures on a website about Boats and Yatchs for Sale.Las Palmas is everything the promoters of tourism about sun says, plus a bit more. It is a favourite retirement place of boat-addicted seniors who got tired of Sweden and its very structured lifestyle. We met Dennis and Ulrika - both Swedes who never left Las Palmas since falling in love with the place 15 years ago. The place is extremely generous to seniors even with healthcare services. Living in a boat is cheap compared to a flat or house. One pays a daily harbour fee of seven EUR which is about 2,700 a month. How much does a flat cost in Sweden?
The boat is still Afriki, until we get its new name painted. It is a very spacious boat with lots of compartments for storing things. It can easily sit 10 people outside for dinners and drinks and another 8 inside. It is a perfect home for two people. The sleeping areas are also generous and can accommodate 6 people. It is equipped with fishing lines which is very important for our plan in Sal - special fishing expeditions.
The first problem we met was the non-functioning stove which made us dependent for coffee on our Swedish neighbours Dennis and Ulrika. At this writing, my SO is battling with the kitchen connections, possibly dismembering the connections. I escaped to Barabordo to do my IT and have a great lasagne lunch. Alone! We'll probably stay a bit more in Las Palmas. It feels so easy and stressfree.
On sunsets when we pop open a bubble ( wine and alcohol are really cheaper than in Sweden's Systembolaget's), we don't talk much and simply savour the gift of a changed lifestyle that allows us to learn not just about a boat and her attributes but about each other. It is surprising that getting to know someone actually takes longer than love at first sight.#
Oct. 29, 2010, Friday.
ReplyDeleteAnother glorious day in Las Palmas.On our 3rd evening, I managed to put the stove to proper use with a homecooked dinner - a full 3 dish menu, with my favourite Thai chicken in coconut milk. There were bubbles, candles and lively conversation. The Spanish culture has softened many stereotypes attributed to Swedes - that lightness towards life and its many gifts.
G, my SO is still deep into the things left in the boat. We don't have sea maps for the Canaria to Cape Verde sail. But too many of other maps in other oceans.
Cheers to you all!
Oct. 30th, Saturday. The Spaniards have siesta hours from 13 to 16 hrs. And they are as holy as can be. Most shops are closed. I needed to buy some cough medicines and finally found one that was opened on weekends. DINO is ICA here. And IKEA is about 20 minutes by taxi. That was stupid. We should have taken the bus Global. We bought things needed in the boat. Today, Sunday I'm trying to get to one of the churches to make special request to my patron Mother.
ReplyDeleteMonday, Nov. 1st.
ReplyDeleteThe evening before, we took a walk around the Las Palmas harbour - a promenade lane that is more like a lover's lane. We looked at each particular boat moored inside and the container ports from a distance. Las Palmas is strategically located for Europe, Asia and Africa sea transport repair and refuelling needs. A strong breakwater of solid rocks protects the inland and harbour from any storm and overflooding of the seawater. Under these rocks live plenty of cats that seem cared for, fed and looked after by the locals. We saw several patiently waiting beside the kitchen door of a sushi restaurant.
I made a homemade dinner of chicken meatballs in spagetti with green salad, papaya dessert and Pzalz rhine wine.
Today, Nov. 1st I think of all the loved ones departed and hope that they are at peace.
Nov. 3, Wednesday, Las Palmas
ReplyDeleteWe are one week ow in Las Palmas. The boat's many compartments continue to spout hidden treasures and rubbish. It is equipped with all navigational aids and SOS alarm signals. The electrical cables have to be traced in order to understand where they lead and are for what purpose.
There are all sorts of sailing books and guides. The former owner sailed alone to the Caribbean andNew Zealand. The electrical outlets are all US-Canada adapted in voltage. Can't use them for Europe.
I have started to feel at home with the kitchen preferring to cook more than eat out. It is "gemutlich" to eat in the cockpit table with candles.
Friday, Nov. 15th
ReplyDeleteToday is the 10th day we are anchored in Muelle Deportivo-home of some 1,400 yatchs of various sizes. Some are gearing for the yearly regatta mid-November. We are meeting a Dane who might be the missing crew we need. He wants to sail to Brazil.
Yesterday we get a visit from a Danish couple who will be staying a month here. They have a great lifestyle. During wintertime, they move to some sunny places and stay some 5 to 6 months. I call that a quality lifesyle for active 60plus people.
We also visited Lidl and saw how cheap food and wine is plus other goods. We have to stock up for the journey and for Cape which is rather poor with many supplies except fish.
The Chinese stores provide the cheapest goods. Not quality but cheap. Ikea here is more display than goods to buy.
Boat things need to be the unbreakable stuff, so no crystals.
I already broke 2 wine glasses from Ikea!
The Skandinavian Club is not really a welcoming place. The first night we were there to check out the place, the Chair said: "Are you not going to pay for membership?" We replied: " We are here only for a week or two". Drinks are really cheap there but the food is not much to talk about.
Sat. Nov. 6, 2010
ReplyDeleteThe sun lords over las Palmas, as usual. I went to my favourite restaurant with a wireless facility. It was not as smooth connection so I tried another one, the Sailor´s Bar. Lots of boatoswners and tourists hanging out here. I managed to open my FB and hotmail and Avanza. Not much to read.
We found a small IT cafe and that´s where I am writing this update. I think that we found our crewmember - Stven, a Danish guy of 36 years who speaks Portuguese, among other languages. Very keen to start his sailing adventure. So
I guess we´ll take him since our sons couldn´t make the sailing challenge.
On Saturdays, Las Palmas streets are virtually empty. The Nautical Bar by the harbour had disco music blaring until three in the morning. Couldn´t sleep properly.
Tonight, we are dinner guests of Dennis and Ulrika who lives in their yatch Nipper. Should be a memory to remember.
This is all for today! Cheers!
Nov. 8th, Monday
ReplyDeleteToday we are taking in one crewmember, a 36-yr old Danish who wants to continue his journey to Brazil and earn some sea time. G. has done plenty to get the boat in order, explored all the compartments where nuts, bolts, masts, spare parts, etc. were kept. There was no operational manual for the boat which was something I wondered. It takes an experienced boatman to know whats what for which. It is also amazing how much work it is just to correct switches, change cables, water, etc.
Today, G. will test the engine and inflate the dingy. I want to paint away the Toronto sign and change it to C.V. for Cape Verde, as well as the name Afriki (?) to its new name "Sheilah".
Ah! the food list, that must be planned in advance. I will not have the time to stand in my kitchen and cook. We will have 6 hrs each to steer the boat and have enough sleep as well.
I pray to my guardian Mother for safe journey.
Bye for today!
Nakakainggit!Ang sarap magliwaliw at maglayag sa piling ng kinagigiliwan!
ReplyDelete